Jea Kim One of the best wine bars I’ve been to.
I had no reason to stop in this town, but this place was the only one mentioned in the Michelin guide. So I figured I’d stop by for lunch. Came in right at opening on a Friday afternoon, and the space wasn’t busy at all. A small setup like a classic wine bar, but the wine list and food were unique.
I don’t go to wine bars often, but this one caught my eye. They had an entire list dedicated to Eastern European wines from places like Hungary, Germany, and Slovakia. And the French-inspired dishes were built to match. Almost zero acidity and mellow seasoning in all the dishes, which made the wines necessary complements.
For food, I ordered the vegetable terrine, rainbow trout crudo, and braised cabbage. Everything looked beautiful, but the terrine and crudo were my favorites. The terrine was an even mix of egg and onion terrine, which were like soft custards. The black-garlic butter on the side was more savory than sweet, and the smoked leek ash added a dry, charcoal-mineral snap that the terrines needed. With the brittle breadsticks, it almost felt like a savory vegetable pie filled with mousse.
The trout crudo (apparently the last of the season) was incredible. Mostly belly cuts, sliced into long, ribbon-like strips that almost moved like noodles. Barely seasoned, just a light touch of salt and olive oil, which allowed that cool, buttery texture to speak for itself. Definitely one of the best trout crudos I’ve had in recent memory.
The glass I had, a white blend from Eastern Germany, was soft-edged with a rounded finish. Somewhere between floral and mineral. It paired really nicely with everything on the table. Not sure if they always focus on Eastern European wines, but if they do, I’d gladly detour through this town again.
